Belle Hat - Sewing Pattern PRINT or PDF

DESIGN

The Belle is a reversible floppy hat. With a robust outer fabric and lighter inner fabric, the combination of weights gives the perfect floppy fall for this lazy day hat. Optional mini loop details for both inside and outside are included to hold ties that double as crown trim. You can have loops on both, one side, or none.
The brim bias edge trim makes an easy-to-achieve finish with a split edge so the bias safely frays. This technique means you can have either contrast or matching trim on both sides. 
Partial brim wire can be added if required to keep the brim out of your eyes without compromising the floppy hat's aesthetics. The notions include a few accessible wire options to make sourcing easier. 

FIT

Sized; XS - L  or 53 cm • 20 7/8" - 60.5 cm • 23 13/16"

The Belle is a soft-fitting hat; the higher crown is on the narrower side, with the brim point a softer fit. The tie can cinch in the brim for a firmer fit. Thicker fabric will shrink the head circumference slightly.

FABRIC

We recommend an outer fabric that is weighty, has no stretch, is 250 GSM +, and has a pliable finish to help craft the soft crown curves, cotton twill, denim, canvas. 
For the inner fabric, lighter, stable cotton is perfect - a minimum of 120 GSM. Avoid fabrics that tend to grow, like linen or cellulose-based fabrics. 
The combination of these weights plus the construction method will turn the seams into the scaffolding for the brim. 
For non-directional prints, cut the Centre Panel B as one piece. For directional prints, cut the Centre Panel B into two pieces with seam allowances for the print to run in a consistent direction (See pattern and cutting layout; make sure to include seam allowance). This cutting plan style will add bulk to the junction of the Side Panels A to the Centre Panel B and is recommended for machines with a bit more muscle. 

Interfacing is optional and can be used to build up the fabric body and give a consistent, smooth texture for crunchier fabrics. It will also improve the overall fall and shape of the Belle. You can use this on both the inner and/or outer fabrics.
Types of interfacing: A knit with a dot pattern for the glue is best. This glue pattern maintains flexibility. Depending on the weight of your fabrics, you can use light to mid-weight interfacing. Avoid stiff or bag-making weights if you still want to maintain the movement in the fabric.

FABRIC LENGTHS

Outer & inner fabric
No nap or print direction 
Width = 130 cm • 52”
Length = 50 cm • 20”

Interfacing for no nap or print direction
Width = 105 cm • 42”
Length = 65 cm • 26”

Outer & inner fabric
With nap or print direction 
Width = 130 cm • 52”
Length = 50 cm • 20”

Interfacing for nap or print direction
width = 80 cm • 32”
length = 65 cm • 26”

NOTIONS

 Optional plastic brim wire: The wire should be placed in the front of Centre Panel B, not the entire circumference, to prevent annoying brim falls into your eyes but maintain the floppy hat aesthetic.
The recommended wire is all plastic, with no metal wire or interior.  The wire should hold some shape and bounce but not be rigid or floppy and not melt with ironing. Suggestions are Millinery wire, Hanging wire, Fishing wire, Grass trimmer wire (aka Whipper Snipper) 
Length = 20 cm • 7 7/8"

INSTRUCTIONS
Intermediate

SKILL LEVEL
Fully illustrated step-by-step Width  = 1 mm - 2.5 mm • 1/16 - 1/8"

DIGITAL FORMAT
MULTI-SIZED and LAYERED FILES
A4 / US letter PDF = 5 page patternA4 / 8-page instruction bookletor A1 (Smaller than 'Copy Shop or standard A0) = 1 pages Pattern and Instruction combination.